I have sat on the fence when it comes to making a decision about rolling and tipping varnish or just laying it down with a badger hair brush. I have built 2 canoes and both of those have 6 coats of varnish on the outside. Each time I have somehow screwed up the final coat either with a holiday or a sag. They look good but I know where the sags and holidays are.

I took my Merlin on a 46 mile trip this past spring. After 26 portages and several surprise rocks, the hull was in need of a little TLC. I also decided it was time to reinforce the stems with several layers of bias cut cloth. Ok, all the prep work is behind me and today was D-day.

I picked up some 4" high density foam rollers at Lowes and went to work with roller and badger hair tipping brush. I did the hull in 30 minutes flat working small sections and keeping a wet edge on both sides of the hull. When all was done I said to self, what took you so long to pick up on rolling and tipping. The finish is flawless and without a brush stroke.

So if anyone out there is close to varnish time I encourage you to try rolling and tipping varnish.

Good tip !
I've used high density foam rollers for awhile, applying coats of Epoxy. I love them !
For varnish, I've always just used foam brushes, with so-so results.
I should redo a few hulls, maybe this Winter, and I'll keep your tip in mind !
Thanks Joe !

Jim

1JimD - So the high density rollers they sell at hardware stores are good enough for rolling epoxy, no need for the fancy ones sold specifically for epoxy?

I'll need to both epoxy & varnish the exterior of the Northstar once I'm done fixing it, this will be helpful information.

I applied a second coat of varnish today. With this second coat, I call the refinishing of the exterior done. I put 6 coats of varnish on this canoe when I built her. So, with this 2nd coat I have a total of 8 coats on the sides and 9 on the bottom (not counting the varnish that was sanded away to get at dings). Some dings were into the cloth and I decided to leave those alone.

what I did and what I was using:

Hull initially sanded down with 220 grit (bad spots got a little 120 work first).
Between coats I sanded with 320 grit
Pettit Z-Spar Flag Ship varnish (not thinned)
A 3" badger hair brush for tipping
Whizz 4" high density foam rollers (Lowes)
The temperature in my shop was 72
Before varnish wet wipe the hull, mop the floor (and anything else you might bump into). I then wipe down the hull with mineral spirits, let dry, and just before applying varnish hit it with a tack rag.

My biggest problem (with self) is to maintain control and methodically work the hull from one end to the other. I roll out varnish in several directions on hull sections that are about 1' - 1.5' . Before tipping off look the job over closely for skips then tip off from dry to wet side. Work alternate sides of the hull maintaining a wet edge and hustle.

quote mirth: "1JimD - So the high density rollers they sell at hardware stores are good enough for rolling epoxy, no need for the fancy ones sold specifically for epoxy?


I'll need to both epoxy & varnish the exterior of the Northstar once I'm done fixing it, this will be helpful information."

Yes and no. I used a few to roll on ultralight successive coats of epoxy. They hold up well but start breaking down toward the last 1/4 or so.

It did leave a few chunks here and there but was easy enough to pick them off the hull. It works well, just not perfect.

quote mirth: "1JimD - So the high density rollers they sell at hardware stores are good enough for rolling epoxy, no need for the fancy ones sold specifically for epoxy?


I'll need to both epoxy & varnish the exterior of the Northstar once I'm done fixing it, this will be helpful information."

Grizzleyman is correct.
There is a difference in the quality, and foam used in some rollers ! The ones rated for Varnish SHOULD be better. I bought mine from RAKA, and have not had any problems !

Jim

BTW - highplainsdrifter... that is a sweet looking mirror finish coat!