Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Gear Forum :: Snowshoes
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Bearpath9 |
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Bearpath9 |
1. Not looking for top of the line shoes, something about 100 bucks or so would be fine. 2. Are used shoes a good option ? 3. Having read some previous threads on the subject on this site, I think a shoe that will work on both packed, groomed trails, and ungroomed, untouched snow would be best. Do they make such a shoe ? 4. I would be going on both flat and hilly terrain. 5. For what it's worth, I'm 5'10", go about 160-170 lbs., and would be wearing Sorels on my size 10-10 1/2 feet. Should I look into a different boot ? (My left foot is about 1" longer than my right). Since I have never done this before (and I can't believe I'm even considering it), I'm pretty much a babe in the woods (pun not intended) so any input will be welcomed. Thanks. |
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dogwoodgirl |
atlas snowshoes |
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bobbernumber3 |
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Knoozer |
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dogwoodgirl |
fadersup: "dogwoodgirl: "I like my Atlas snowshoes a lot- have had them about 4 years now. Easy on and off, really grippy when it's icy. Good all around snowshoe. I have the Atlas Elektra, which might no longer be in production- but I'm sure there are still similar models. atlas elektra |
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Grizzlyman |
mschi772: "Grizzlyman: " I put different bindings on. Good question . I think a lot of people like the bob maki’s. I still have a pair on one of my sets of shoes- but I find my toes slide into the corners and make the snowshoes cockeyed- that could just be me though. Personally-I like the step through oval rubber ones- if you search “rubber snowshoe bindings” there’s a number of different manufacturers that make similar bindings. They’re simple and they work! Puts your foot right on the webbing and holds your foot tight. They do also make hard pivotable snowboard like bindings that attach to traditional shoes- I haven’t tried those. Hope this helps. |
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mschi772 |
Grizzlyman: " Surplus snowshoes Have some bindings you recommend for these or other traditionals? Honestly, it's the fiddle factor and the relative lack of comfort that makes me weary of traditional snowshoes. I have enough stuff to fiddle with and put a bunch of maintenance effort into as it is. |
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fadersup |
dogwoodgirl: "I like my Atlas snowshoes a lot- have had them about 4 years now. Easy on and off, really grippy when it's icy. Good all around snowshoe. Which model do you like? |
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Grizzlyman |
Knoozer: "Kind of like canoes, there are several snowshoes that can be used in many of the conditions you mentioned, but just about every type of multi-use will have shortcomings as well. Most of the modern, metal/plastic, run of the mill snowshooz are made for walking on packed trails. They are easy to put on and easy to walk on, and they may have crampons on the bottom to make them OK for walking up and down a hill. But they will make it very difficult to walk in deep, powdery snow. My personal preference is traditional, wooden ones. " Agree. Modern snowshoes arent really made for being “snowshoes.” They’re made for being shoes which you wear in the snow on a packed trail. I’ve tried several and yet to find good flotation in powdery snow. If you desire flotation, traditional styles IMO are the best. I used Hurons-“tennis rackets” for years. But I got some Alaskans a few years back and I like those a lot more. If it were me I like the Alaskans best. But they’re also the most expensive. If you want low cost traditional style there are some really good GI surplus models made out of magnesium and woven w/ steel cable - I bought some about 10 years ago for like 50 online. Price is probably similar still. They’re a really good bombproof set. I’m sure you can find them with a little googling. They’re Huron style. As far binding I’ve used the bob maki’s and the step through black rubber ones that look like ovals. I like those better. My toes were always slipping one direction or the other in the bob makis. My .02 |
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jillpine |
altai hoks |
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OldTripper |
The wood/rawhide ones give the most support and are best in new snow and breaking trail while the Atlas do better on trails, windswept lakes, above treeline, or in the spring with the snow is well consolidated and/or a little slushy. I've had my rawhide ones get a little saggy from using them in the springtime when the snow is pretty wet, but they always recover when they dry out. The reason I sold the modern aluminum/plastic Tubbs is because they were so noisy if the snow was consolidated or crusted at all. They had the hard plastic decking unlike the Atlas that has like a rubber cloth material like you would use in a raft. Lastly, make sure you get a pair with good bindings that pivot well. I don't know what they are like now, but at one time Red Feather brand snowshoes were notorious for having a poor binding. The snowshoe would get snow on the tail of the shoe and throw a handful of snow up on the users back every time you took a step. Your back would be covered in snow in a short time. |
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gonorth1 |
Also, in general, the longer the snowshoe, the more flotation, or ability to stay on top of the snow. It is important to know that no snowshoe is going to keep you completely on top of several inches of powder snow. In powder you are going to sink some. For instance I've been in situations with lots of fresh powder on long snowshoes and still sunk down mid thigh into the snow. Talk about a workout! I'd just suggest buying a length beyond the recommended length. It just provides a bit more floatation when you are off the beaten path. For groomed or packed snowshoe trails, just about any snowshoe will work for you. In these situations you do not have to be concerned much with sinking down into the snow. Of course if you do not have any snowshoe on you will likely sink, post hole, through the snow. Today, most snowshoes sold are made of some sort of metal with a crampon type claw on the bottom of the binding, a nice feature. Wooden shoes are beautiful but harder to come by and require more maintenance. I may be wrong but I've not seen wooden snowshoes with the more modern crampon style binding. If you are buying used, check the quality and condition of the binding straps. Obviously, tears would be a point of concern. If you buy older ones with leather straps, remember, just like Duluth packs, the leather can be reconditioned. Some new snowshoes come with a storage bag and poles. Both are nice to have. Off the beaten path a pole or two can help provide stability. Please!!! Please!!! Please!!! Do not walk on cross country ski trails. These trails are groomed for skiers only. While the nice wide trail groomed for skate skiing looks inviting they are intended for cross country skiers only. If you read the signs carefully, you are likely to find separate snowshoe only trails in the same area. Enjoy the wonders of winter! |
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SevenofNine |
My advice is to think about where you will travel as more narrow shoes be it metal or wood will allow easier maneuvering in bush or trees so Ojibway or Cross Country style shoes might be a better option versus a big Bear Paw style shoe. Just be sure to get them longer so you can add more floatation that way. |
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Grizzlyman |
Here are the surplus shoes I referenced earlier. These are really great snowshoes. They’ve got small crampons welded on the frame too. You can find them on a number of different websites. I put different binding on. |